Mississippi Blues

Mississippi Blue
Natchez, Mississippi Solstice 2006
Hwy 61, warm & humid, gassing up at the Chevron, I see a sign in the window, Let’s Stand-up for Jesus, then just above is a sign Natchez's Best BBQ, its 8am I go check out the smoker at the side of the building, Mike Smith is there, we talk BBQ, then he invites me in for a sample, BBQ pulled pork for breakfast, why not.
Of course it’s delicious, no talk of Jesus, but he would be proud.
Off to explore the Grand Village of the Natchez Indians, they inhabited what is now southwest Mississippi around 700-1730 AD with the culture at it’s zenith in the mid-1500s. Between 1682 AND 1729 THE Grand Village was their main ceremonial center. French explorers, priests and journalists described the ceremonial mounds built by the Natchez on the banks of St. Catherine Creek, during that period, the French explored the region and begin settlements. Relations between the French and the Natchez were cordial at first but deteriorated beginning in 1716 until 1729, when the Natchez massacred the French garrison at Fort Rosalie. The French retaliated in such force in 1730 that the Natchez were forced to abandon their homeland.
On to Hwy 61 and Mississippi, Birthplace of America’s Music, Yes, blues from the Delta.
Natchez is also the start of the Natchez Trace, 450 miles to Nashville, over the centuries, the Choctaw, Chickasaw and other American Indians left their marks on the Trace. The Natchez Trace experienced its heaviest use from 1785 to 1820 by the “Kaintuck” boatmen that floated the Ohio and Miss. rivers to markets in Natchez and New Orleans. They sold their cargo and boats and began the trek back north on foot to Nashville and points beyond, they also took what they could get for lumber in their boats. The swift Mississippi made up stream travel nearly impossible. Stories of settlers, mail carriers, solders, bandits, missionaries and opportunists paint the past.
Northward on Hwy 61, pass Fort Gibson, Blue cruises leave from here, pass plantations, soul food joints, cars with fishing poles out the back window, kids in the back of a truck, gesture to a trucker to toot his horn, he does, pass Vicksburg, onward to Onward, the Onward Store is located where Highway 61 and Hwy 1 meet in Sharkey County. Onward is a small Mississippi town, Onward became known because former President Theodore Roosevelt’ famous bear hunt was held close to here in 1902. A famous bear hunter Holt Collier and friends went out early to scout for bears. Luck was with Collier and he trapped and tied up a 235-pound Black bear. When Roosevelt arrived, he refused to kill a tied-up bear and the bear hunt was stopped. Local and national newspapers began to run political cartoons about the President refusing to kill the bear. The Cracker Jack Company and toy companies created stuffed bears called “teddy bear”.
Turn left to Rt. 1, towards the river, though farm country, cotton, soy bean, and corn fields, wooded areas, and the levy in the distance to tame the grand river, pulling into a small rural town of poor folks hangin; around, shade trees, in the south, its good to have the right tree, looking for soul food, I sky a place with fried catfish , but not open, I drove away wondering how to get closer to the culture, then pass the Rock of Ages Baptist church to Rosemont. There is dispute has to where the elocution of the famous crossroads are, folks in Rosemont think it’s in their town, then again there are 3 gravesites for Robert Johnson.
I stop at the Blue Levee for lunch, alterative folks here, moved away long ago to come home, everything changes over time, they are making a difference, they have a good Plate Special of BBQ Pork Sand, coleslaw and beans with sweet tea, and they have music on the weekend. The locals are keeping their thread strong.
On to the river, at the State park there is a display of an old still, even comes with the recipe on how to make moonshine, must go camping there someday.
I take the Bobo-New Africa Road back to Hwy 61, just enough time to go see the Delta Blues Museum in Clarksdale, an excellent collection on photos by Panny Maysfield of Juke joints of years past, Margaret’s Blue Diamond, Dew Drop Inn, Red’s Blue’s Club, Terry’s Blue’s depot Club and Ground Zero, which is across the street playing the blues nightly. The are remnants of Muddy Water’s wooden shack the one he was raised in, B.B. Kings Lucille and others guitars and tributes to past greats. In the back is a studio for young and old musicians, there are about 12 folks playing, organs, couple of bass players, four or five guitars, drums and a vocalist, someone is playing some great riffs, I can’t tell who, try to watch their fingers, his back is to me, a 12 year old young man putting it out, they are keeping the blues alive, players and fans from all over the world come here to the Crossroads.

As I leave I go to the Crossroads Hwy 61 & 49 to pay homage to Robert Johnson and Mississippi, with a new found respect for its people, struggles and the music that helped them survive and influence so many. The rhythm of the land, the beat of the heart, the swing of one’s hips, hard working by day, freedom to play all night. Working people’s music, the blues.
At the crossroads is a Abe’s BBQ, since 1924, great pulled pork sand with slaw on it and sweet vinegar BBQ, the stories these walls could tell. Listen.
In August is the Sunflower Blues Festival, it’s free.
There is a Delta Blues Map Kit, good resources, to order: www.bluesoterica.com
Its 5pm, need to make time, thoughts of Memphis, not enough time, Tupelo instead is my destination tonight, the birthplace of Elvis. I take LA 278 pass Batesville, Oxford, where the land changes from flat river bottle land to rolling hills, North on a small road LA 9n, horses, small farms, to Hwy 78E to a short ride to Tupelo, there is the Natchez Trace, its still early, 8pm, don’t stop yet. Happy to explore, a lot of miles today, the Trace is a gentle ride, no stops, stores, towns, this road cuts though time, its cool, there are lighting bugs out, Skate and I glide on the two lane blacktop, a heavenly road, hardly a soul on the road, it is were the voices of the past can be heard, if you Listen. It’s too nice to stop, Northeastern Mississippi, my discovery, as we slice off Alabama into Tennessee, on to Waynesboro for some needed rest. I must see and drive down the entire Natchez Trace, this is one on the great roadways in America. Next time more slowly and with more time to absorb its gentle beauty, then on to the Delta and the blues.
Miss you Mississippi.
62.9mph/520.8 miles traveled