Grey Fox Bluegrass Festival '06

Grey Fox Bluegrass Festival 7/12th-16th
Getting in late afternoon, a light drizzle falls all day, then heavy rain while setting up my tent it stops, when I do. Time to meet the neighbors, Nina & Aaron, his brother Chris and Zoe, I do the walk of the site, I set my chair on a spot halfway up the hill over looking the main stage, first come, should have been here a week ago. Some Kerrville folks here, too. Looking forward to unwinding and independence from my mind. Praise good music and folks. Late night, it time to cruise the campsites,listening to folks play, mostly friends playing together, meeting up with each other from where ever they are from, I do come across some nice pickin’,a stand-up bass, and a hot mandolin player
two fast guitar players, along comes a grey haired dad and his 12 year old son, the boys strumming chords on his guitar a little outside the circle, then all the musicians welcome the young man into the circle, and the dad with a banjo proceeds to set the place on fire. Delightful first night of music, beer and new friends, up a little past midnight, falling asleep with music in my mind.
Thursday, Hit & Run, from Colorado, standard tradition bluegrass, crafted original tunes, finishing with ‘Mabeline”, then Cadillac Sky from Ft. Worth, a hot Tejas group with two national champions, a hot mandolin player and singer, this group is on it’s way to big, then Hot Buttered Rum, I missed them, yet heard lots of cheers, Mollie O’Brien & three gals from Uncle Earl, with heavenly harmonies, then Tim O’Brien & Molly O’Brien, brother & sister, family voices with good tunes, Red Stick Ramblers, from SW Louisiana, packed the dance floor, heads bobbing, got all of everything out of me, dancing for a couple of hours, then the Austin Lounge Lizards, missed them,but saw them in Kerrville, finishing the first night was Railroad Earth, hot, hot, hot, starting off at 11:15pm, playing late into the next day, a great jam band from Jersey, great balance of power, moving well with each other in & out of songs, even better with a double scoop of mint chip and chocolate in a waffle cone.
Friday, Day 2, starting off with Chatham County Line, fun young group from North Carolina, the Master’s Stage provided shade and intimate listening, the Song Swap was impressive with Jeremy Garret and his inspired country music, Jimmy Roger style, the boy can tell a story or two, then a Banjo style workshop with Bill Keith, master musician, Danny Barnes from Seattle, Larry Gango from Montana and Abigail Washburn from Uncle Earl, she a big hit with her voice and Banjo style, ‘round peak’, old mountain music from the hills, and off to the Dance stage, it was hopping all weekend, Magnolia, Lil’Anne & Hot Cayenne, with dance lessons from Michelle Kaminsky had everyone and me on the floor, back to the Main Stage with the Gibson Brothers doing Louvin Brothers material, then Del McCoury Band, always wanted to see him, he did not disappoint, they finished with “When I am 64” you know the Beatles song right, and Bela Fleck sitting in, too!, I'm not finished yet, Jerry Douglas with drums and electric guitar, he is a master Dobro player, with his own eclectic brand of bluegrass, jazz and interpretation, the closing act, was some of the best music all night, Tim O’Brien’s Cornbread Nation with Bela Fleck, Pat Flynn, Darrell Scott and a really, really good fiddle player Danny Driessen, hot fun into the late night, and early morning.
Saturday,Day 3 Abigail Washburn, with Bela Fleck on banjo, Casey Driessen on fiddle and Ben Sollee on cello start our day, with original music in English and Chinese from her album ‘Song of the Traveling Daughter”, she will be going to China this fall and lead the first ever US music tour to go to Tibet with the Sparrow Quartet including Bela Fleck, one song sticks out, “I got the key to the Kingdom, and the world can’t do me no harm.”






A standing ovation to start this day, then the Red Stick Ramblers get the main stage, even sporting ties, after two great nights on the Dance Stage, the Abigail again in the Master’s Tent doing songs in Chinese, Jordan McConnel of the Duhks from Winnipeg sits in. I have heard of this band, they are up and coming, then King Wilkie, young, energetic, then a nap before the Big Night, Larry Sparks & The Lonesome Ramblers, I could be in this group, he worked with the Staley Brothers then formed his own in ’69, he remains true to the best tradition of Bluegrass, then always the great Ricky Skaggs & Kentucky Thunder, an eleven time Grammy winner, Chet Atkins once credited Skaggs with “single-handily saving country music”, a headliner at most venues, he began playing mandolin at the age of 5, he even played with Bill Monroe, then at 7 with Flatt & Scruggs, with his help and others, now a new generation of musicians from around America, they are keeping Bluegrass alive, I know in Portland we have allot of excellent bands, check out bubbaguitar.com for more information, then Mountain Heart, they have a distinct, dynamic sound, one of the new super group, they move in and out of songs together, like a dance, building each song with a rich texture of varied sounds and style, yeah, it’s time for Steve Earl & the Bluegrass Dukes, I am sooo excited joining him is Tim O’Brien, Casey Driessen, Darrell Scott, Bela Fleck and others, how much fun can I have today, I must have died and gone to heaven, Steve does mostly doing his older stuff, fine by me, ‘Slow Train’, his politics, words, a man that speaks his mind, go man go! Two Standing Ovations. Steve for President ’08!!!
Sunday Morning, awake, I am not in Heaven, so time to catch the Sunday Morning Gospel show with Dry Branch Fire Squad, established in 1976, they are the long time host band here, playing traditional, old-time and gospel, fueled with musical vision, biting cultural commentary is the band’s leader Ron Thomason, his dry wit, slow delivery and stories were funny, sad and his sense of humor starts this Sunday. He talked about Death with Dignity, the War, God, his Farm and Friends, a truly good man. He said “if we did not have the Government, how would we know we were doing things right”. Time to take down the tent, get ready to go deeper into to Northeast, where accents are getting thicker, traveling South to NE, quite diverse changes in voice. I start my day going the wrong way, who cares, listening to ‘like a fox on the run’ yes it's OK to be lost.
Heading out on Rt. 3 to Ancram, a good breakfast needed after 4 days camping, then North on Rt. 22, beautiful NY country drive, hoping to stop in Pittsfield, Mass., for the night, then I go though Copake, then take 295E, then Rt.41N for a moment, then RT.20E into Massachusetts, Pittsfield, I drive around for about a 1/2 hour, this town does feel right, onward then, where to go, pass Dauton to Rt.8n to Savoy, 116E to 8A north, this road following the creek, small blacktop road to Claremont, on the Mohawk Trail, lots of kayaks on the Deerfield River, pass Shelburne Falls, and the Bridge of Flowers, sounds like a place to go, I go by, returning the next day, with views of three states to the north, then on to Greenfield, this feels right, I shower, shave and publish my rant, where did the angst go? It’s on paper, still. The mind is a magical thing!
Greenfield, I asks a local where to go for a bite, he says Bill’s is good, been around a while, it looks OK, but up the block is the People’s Pint, local, home-made beers, a music circle playing Celtic music, I order the Ploughman Classic with Vermont x-tra Sharp cheese, apple, house-made sausage and bread, along with a couple of pints, Pied IPA, then Farm Brown Ale, they have hand crafted soda, and cider as well, even a beer called Poet’s Seat Pale, and lots of good desserts too, Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp, Lemon Cheesecake with Wild Blueberry-Port Sauce, sounds good, it is.
A great way to start my journey though the NE, on my way to see a Moose, at the top of Maine.
60.1/133.1 miles traveled

a Rant & two Rides!!!

Gettysburg, Pa. to Tabernacle, N.J. July 8th
Take Hwy 30E, out to Gettysburg to York, then Hwy 74E, then 372 E, the Heart of Amish Country, though Bethesda and Buck, down Hwy 41 E to Route 1 N, pass Brandywine, 322 E to the toll bridge, south of Chester, into NJ, continue on 322 E, though Glassboro to Williamstown, then 532 N,Wharton State Forest, take 206 N, to 532 E to Tabernacle, and my sister Valerie’s house.
60.1 mpg/ 215.8 traveled
Leaving Gettysburg, site of one of the deadlyest battles in American history, so many lifes lost, the most our nation has ever experienced, how many souls live here, and my own sister lays here now as well.
Heading East , though York, large older red brick buildings and factories, downtown feels dated, you can smell blue collar sweat, the honest bustle, watch out for delivery trucks, and signs for highway routes, very important. Cutting under Lancaster, into the Heart of Amish County, towns like Blue Ball, Paradise, Intercourse and Bird in Hand.
Large Farms, using old ways to farm and live. I think an Amish farmer could use a plastic knife and still have a magnificent piece of property.
An aside, this country was divided, differences of values, ideas, economic and racial issues tainted the country. We are still getting over a civil war that spit this nation. Are we headed to another civil war, based on ideals and morolity? The way I see it worship the way you wish, or go to hell? We can’t have it both ways.
Behind an Amish Buggy, going 15mph on a small back country road that raises and falls, quick turns at the edge of someone's property, we slow down admiring the past , we have tolerance and reverence, yet can we do the same behind a vehicle with a rainbow decal, or long haired freaks? Long hair, I had long hair before country performers thought it looked cool. So I cut my hair.




Heading to Jersey between Philadelphia and Chester, slipping into Jersey, and then taking the back roads to see family and a new Grandchild Gianna.
She has curly blond hair, blue eyes, light olive complexion, dad’s Italian, she is a joy, able to function independently, observant, confident, an easy fit for my daughter Anna, a single mom now.
In Tabernacle, home of my sister Valerie and family, where the deer outnumber the humans, I have a half a day, so it'stime to go to Philly to see the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall, I start my tour going though a screening, I take a picture, I am told to delete the shot, it’s a digital, easy, no so with film, I am told to take my hat off, I was even told to lift the hat, to provide a better view of the inside of hat.
The Liberty Bell, freedom rings, is this Liberty, are we a free society, we take risks because of our freedom, yes. Because the government can not do their job properly without making everyone guilty and then proved innocent, that is backwards. This makes us safe?
The place Ben Franklin made famous, the state that was tolerant of so many religions, some still florest, and our future is not imposed on them. Where is our freedom of thought and movement, we must be vigilant, all citizens, that is our job. Again the government is taking something away, sheep we are.
What a show, security guards, low wage workers with little pay or formal training, without skills to evaluate a true threat, going though a routine. "Broadway America", the Musical with song and dance and frisking, even a steamy midnight show, touching and cavity searches anyone.
“Proclaim Liberty throughout all the land onto all the inhabitants there of.”
A tradition of Protest, like John Brown’s raid in 1859 although usual for its attack of a federal installations is part of a long tradition of protest and dissent in America. The United Sates was born in protest. In the years before the American Revolution, colonists spoke out against the laws and politics of England. Eventually they rebelled with violence and war. With the ratification of the Bill of Rights in 1791, the Constitution on the United Sates guanuteed Americans the rights of free speech, a free press, the right to petition the government, and the right to assemble peacefully.
Americans frequently use these fundamental rights over time, citizens of the country have organized demonstrations and rallies to oppose politics and champion causes. Often controversial and sometimes violent, these protests have laid the foundation for political, social and economic change. Today as in the past, Americas often exercise their first amendment rights. Right On, what are we afraid of, now?
Now off to see Independence Hall, decisions where made here, debating each issue, with weight on every decision, with thoughts of a new country, to be born and fathered by these men. We must take time today to listen to differences, explore new ideas. America is asking the world to be Democratic, please practice at home. When being patriotic is to scorn at those that dissent. We are a nation born from protest, Revolutionaries, any other names one could call these people. A modern day word?
I take a picture of the front of an old building, nearby a guard tells me, no pictures, this building as been here over 350 years, cancel the PBS documentary, Independence Hall, no DVD will be made. Inside the same drill, no belt, lift my hat, scare me drill.
We must be safer.
Then into the courtyard, I did not look for cameras, yet. I wonder, waiting in a long line, I love history, does anyone know why this place is so special, I go into one of the holy places of history. We get 15 minutes of talk about general stuff, please follow the guide at all times, and we do! 30 guards to one guide. I am learning.
Upstairs on the ______floor (classified), we see where great minds created the rules and guidelines for America.
Later privately I talked to the guide saying, it did not feel right, too much security, he said we should be in the streets angry, I agree. Privately and off the record.
Because of religious extremists from another country, our friends, did a horrible thing, kind of like Hurricanes did to the South, an unplanned disaster, not enough propaganda, yet we should turn our heads away, please let me see what’s under your hat.









Leaving Philadelphia, on the speed line, over the Delaware, over Camden, half the city is boarded out, in my view out the window of the train, for a long as I have been coming here, it’s been that way. Fix this, too.
Fuel for a rested mind, it takes me a day to write this, get the angst out. The taste of conformity.
Leaving Jersey the next day, I get the one finger salute from a concrete truck driver, I am uneasy driving here. In Jersey as a youth, before Oregon and a better brain, I would drive fast, so test me. No more, I have slowed. I wave nicely to the driver, another bird, take care, I am leaving. Cars get in front, don’t look back, running up high speeds for short stretches, hey look I am in front of you. This is helping me leave, I will miss family, and this place of my past.
Maybe, I will learn.
July 12th
North on 206, right though the heart of Trenton, pass restaurant row, ethnic eateries, even Carolina pulled pork and Fried Chicken, connect midtown to Rt. 31N, the nicest road I have been on in Jersey, the state with the worst roads I have experienced, they don’t fix them, just patched, then pass Pennington, Washington, to Buttzville, to Rt. 46 to Columbia, the Delaware Water Gap, most impressive, where the Kittatinny Mountains have given way to eons of steady persuasion by the Delaware River, this famous notch has long been a landmark, not only for natural splendor, recreation, and gentle farmland. The Old Mine Road , the oldest commercial highway in America, which follows an aboriginal trail along the Delaware, believed to be 8000 years old. George Washington’s solders used the road and John Adams and Ben Franklin were frequent travelers. During the mid 19th Century, parts of the Old Mine Road became links in the Underground Railroad, now the Appalachian Trial goes by breathtaking overlooks, sublime glens and ravines, rugged outcroppings, a glacier lake, ancient copper mines and a pheasant drive up & out of Jersey.
Lost for a minute or two, not sure if I am in Jersey or Pennsylvania. North 521, foothills, back on Rt. 206, pass the highest point in Jersey- High Point 1803 feet, then to Montique, north on Rt. 521 into New York, then Port Jervis.
In New York, take 209N to Kingston , following the Basher Kill and Roudout Rivers, though towns of Godeffray, Cuddebackville, Stone Bridge to Kingston, 28E, then 32N across the mighty Hudson River on to Rt. 9/199E to Red Hook, past Lafayette to Pine Plains, to Rt. 82N Ancramdale, then Rt. 3, Overlook Mountain Road, onto the Rothvoss Farm, home of Grey Fox Bluegrass Festival, July 13th-16th.
59.2mpg/ 233.7 miles traveled
I am better now.

Five States in an Hour

Leaving Winchester July 6th
What does Chester in town’s name mean?
Slept in, its 11am, beautiful morning after a few rainy days.
Take Hwy 50/17 east, thought I was going to take 11N, oh well, pass a Southern BBQ joint, vegetable stands, farms and migrant workers in the fields. I am on Lord Fairfax Hwy. and into West Virginia, another surprise, passing Charles Town on to beatutiful rolling hills and small mountains to Harper's Ferry, I had known less about this place then I should or have forgotten.
It's time to explore.
Harper's Ferry sits where the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers meet, with bluffs surrounding this picturesque town. The history of Harper's Ferry has few parallels in the America drama. It is more than one event, one date, or one individual. It is multi-layered, involving a diverse number of people and events, decisions and actions all that influenced the course of our nation’s history. Harper's Ferry witnessed the first successful application of interchangeable parts, the arrival of the first successful American railroad, John Brown’s attack on slavery, the largest surrender of Federal troops during the Civil War, and the education of former slaves in one of the earliest integrated schools in the United States. George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Meriwether Lewis, John Brown, Robert E. Lee, J.E.B. Stuart, Thomas “Stonewall” Jackson, George Custard, Phillip Sheridan, Abraham Lincoln, Frederick Douglas, W.E.B. Du Bois and many others.
Most inspiring to me was the abolitionist John Brown, he believed he could free the slaves, and he selected Harper's Ferry as his starting point. Determined to steal the 100,000 weapons at the arsenal, the US Armory and Arsenal was established here in the 1790’s, Brown was to use the mountains for guerrilla warfare, and he began his raid on Sunday evening Oct. 16, 1859. His 21 man self-styled “army of liberation,” which included three of his sons and five free African-Americans, seized the armory and several other strategic points. Thirty six hours after the raid began, with most of his men killed or wounded, Brown was captured in the armory fire engine house, also known as “John Brown’s Fort”, when US Marines stormed the building, brought to trail at nearby Charles Town, Brown was found guilty of treason against the commonwealth of Virginia, conspiring with slaves to rebel, and murder. He was hanged on Dec. 2, 1859. John Brown short lived raid failed, but his trail and execution focused the nation’s attention on the moral issue of slavery and headed the country toward civil war.
So many important events happened here, the Civil War was profound and disastrous effect on Harpers Ferry, because of the town’s location on the strategic Baltimore and Ohio Railroad at the end of though Shenandoah Valley, Union and Confederate troop movements were frequent, the town changed hands 8 times between 1861 and 1865.
Another very important moment of our History. The Niagara Movement, a cornerstone of Modern Civil Rights, is celebration it’s 100th year on August 18th-20th, 2006, they held their first meeting on American soil in Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia in 1906. At the dawn of the twentieth century, the outlook for civil rights for African Americans was at a precarious crossroads. Failed Reconstruction, the Supreme Court’s separate but equal doctrine (Plessy v. Ferguson), coupled with Booker T. Washington’s Accommodations policies threatened to compromise any hope for full and equal rights under the law.
Harvard educated W.E.B.Du Bois committed himself to a bolder course, his appeal for civil rights, he acted in 1905 by drafting a “Call” to a few select people. The call had two purposes; “organized determination and aggressive action on the part of men and women who believed in Negro freedom and growth,” and opposition to “present methods of strangling honest criticism”. The movement was born.
So much history and change in one place, Harper’s Ferry ignited change throughout its history, I am overwhelmed, impressed, humbled and in awe of this place.
This has to be one of the most important places in American History.
Leaving Harper’s Ferry for Gettysburg. What was it like, living in this region during the Civil War, the stories these hills could tell.
Taking the back way, back into Virginia for a couple of miles, Skate & I cross the Potomac River, though Brownsville, attempting to stay close to the Appalachian Trail as possible.
Take a Right on 40E , it's called the Old Natural Pike, then Hwy 17, small road, going south, not north, hard to tell, a few miles one way, then I need to turn back.
Rolling hills, small mountains in the distance, you can tell where the towns or hamlets are, by the steeple tops of churches poking up though the trees.
17N all back country, crossing Middle Creek numerous times, cooler down by the river, into Smithsburg, the Dixie Eatery, a roller coaster ride, farm town of Lettersburg, then right turn 418E into a big open valley.
Now Pennsylvania, WOW-five states in an hour: Virginia, West Virginia, Virginia, Maryland, and then Pennsylvania.
16E, Now the the Buchanan Trial, pass Red Run Grill, says they have Carolina Pulled Pork, this place is straddling the Mason-Dixon Line, sweet corn for sale, my goal this morning was to get to Blue Ridge Summit, only a few miles up the road, turn north on 116N, pass Frontier BBQ at the Junction then North to Gettysburg, home of my sister Donna’s final resting place, there is lots to see, a reenactment this weekend and 15,000 bikers coming to town for a rally, rumble, rumble, rumble.
But it’s time for family and remembrance for me
Next up: Amish county and the trap door into Jersey.
58.5 mpg/ 120.7 miles traveled

Up the Ridge

Blue Ridge Parkway, Skyline Drive
Leaving Natural Bridge, I had hoped to go to the Bridge the night before for a hike & a view, today I will try. This is a private venue, only $12 for a hike & a view, so I decided to hike Sharps Top at Peaks of the Otto instead, poor visibility, lots of cloud cover, still a nice hike, I let my mind wander, and it's quite humid, sweating off all that BBQ off, right.
Bill Markham has lived here his whole life, as a boy he saw the CCC camps back in the 30’s working on the Parkway and the trail up to Sharps Top, he never meet these people, they were not from here, so he stayed away, don't talk to stangers, but recently he meet one of the workers,they are both elderly now, they shared stories and talked about the work that was done here, it took 3 years to build the road to the top and trail, they used picks, and most labor was done by hand, workers sent money home to families, about $28 per month, I have seen the work of the CCC in the west and now here, times were tough, no work, the depression, my grandparents told me stories, too. Links to the past through oral history, we pass the experiences of our generation and stories we have heard, so please share, listen and pass them on.
Normally there are views of seven ridges up on top, West Virginia some 52 miles away.
Then I head down step by step, rock to rock most of the way, my legs get a really good workout.
A baby fawn on trail, flowering columbine, very peaceful on the trail, only me and nature.
Peaceful drive north on Blue Ridge Parkway, I had hoped to camp a couple of days in these mountains, but the clouds and rain have moved in. So I take a leisurely drive at 45 mph, the Parkway follows the Appalachian Mountains chain, and provides seemingly endless views of parallel ranges connected by cross ranges and scattered hills.
The Parkway leads into the Shenandoah Natural Park and Skyline Drive, staring at the Smokey Mountains add 114 miles to 355 miles of beauty, you would need weeks to truly appreciate this drive, the wildlife is abundant, having seen a fawn, a small Black Bear, they to shy for a picture, and birds of all kinds, and more deer.
There is History at every turn as well, ‘Stonewall’ Jackson used these mountains to confound the North for years.

This is a Great driving road, lots of time for views and while listening music, excellent way to sneak northeasterly, less people, less traffic, no hype, me, Skate, views, animals, flowers, trees, today I am one in the clouds.
Old timey music in the old time mountains.
Front Royal, Virginia, just out of the mountains, I find a Jersey style Italian Eatery, Castiglia’s,there's Pizza, Stromboli, Cheese Steak Sand, Meatball Sand, Eggplant Parmigiana, Cacciatore, Pasta, Tiramisu and Cannoli, I settle for a Pizza Steak Sandwich, no biscuits.
Take Hwy 522N up the road to Winchester, time for beer, the blog and some needed sleep. And it's still raining.
59.9 mpg/ 244.3 miles traveled

Books purchased: The Appalachians, America’s First and Last Frontier, companion to PBS series, and Blue Ridge Music Trails, Finding a Place in the Circle by Fred C. Fussell

“These mountain people, who have been shut out of the world all these years, I know them. If I live…perhaps we can do the justice they deserve” Abraham Lincoln
A follow-up on the Bill of Rights, today I read that Post 9/11 Patriot Act and other new laws, 9254 National Security Letters were issued in 2005, no courts, no review, no oversight, anti-terrorism laws allow access to an array of consumer information, as well as business, health, library and books, too.
The lock has been taken off the door!

Happy 230th Birthday, America

the 4th of July, 2006- Happy Birthday America, 230 years old.
Leaving Gary, NC, it’s muggy, warm, and hot, American Flags out, Neighbors running around the yard with the flag draped over their shoulders.
Off I Go.
Interstate 40W for about 20 miles, pass Biscuit Time, Durham, Chapel Hill, Carrboro, time for a small county road or two. Take 86 N though Hillsborough, a nice small county, town pass Prospect Hill , poor folks here, stop for gas at a corner store, theirs a small southern deli, fried chicken, pulled pork & bbq, outside some poor soul needed a jack for fix a flat, no one seemed to care. Folks came and went, I can’t help, and Skate’s jack would not do the trick, so I drove away hoping someone would help this person.
Listening to the radio, thoughts of my beliefs in my mind on this day, all this talk of what Freedom means, Freedom on thoughts, can we has a country have a vision of Liberty, as a predominate Christian nation?
Freedom's strength is a freedom of faith, would we not be a better nation and, also show the world the greatness of America, but we are not a Christian nation in our laws, but the Rule of Law, our Bill of Rights and Constitution give rights to all Citizens and guidance, neither God or church should command the Nation, yet it’s influences our thoughts, and our sense of morality does impact it, if one were a believer, one would believe we live in the Kingdom of God, and not a Nation were the Church tries to control it. That is why we became America to get away from a church run country. I hate the question when asked “do you believe”, that’s very private subject to me, and it’s a loaded question, noT fair. Thomas Paine wrote,” my own mind, my own church.” If one today would fellow the Ten Commandments, MY beliefs, we would have no more killing, we would be tolerant to all people, we would not judge, I do not believe My God or even Jesus ever said killing is justified. How can we as a nation promote war, in our churches or question the morality on others with different views.
The 4th is a day of honor and respect, a day of reflection of what my place is in this country, I strongly believe in my thoughts of God and Jesus and respect for all sincere belief or not, and will continue to learn and respect others for their points of view, only tolerance and understanding, communication and dialogue will change the world, Not Rightessness.
I Continue the drive North on Hwy 29 into Virginia past Danville to a very small road 43W to Bedford, this town used to be called Liberty, this town lost more men in WW II per capita than any other. Pass peach and apple orchards. Bedford is building a Memorial for this people.

I also, always take time to honor the dead, I have a special place in my heart for sacrifice. Just or not for men and women killed or wounded in battle, yet I think war should be the last resource, World War II had to be fought, but no war after that, that’s is my American opinion.
I go over the Blue Ridge Parkway, looking for shelter, weather has not been good.
I find a place off by Natural Bridge on Rt. 11. A nice inexpensive room on a small quiet highway.
After I go in search of the Natural Bridge, miss the spot, 7 miles out in the country, it starts to rain, then buckets of rain, at times, so thick I stop the car, tree branches down, go around, the wind picks up, this is the most violent storm I have been in in a very long time, I put on my flashers, look though the rain, moment of faith while driving blind.
Back to the motel, power is out, I call friends, drink beer on a wooden bench, reading books in the dark with flashlight, and plotting my course to Gettysburg,
My 4th is fantastic, there was a storm, and I have lighting bugs, thunder in the distance and lighting, too. Cars go by slowly, looking for shelter, it’s hard to tell we are here.
A day of surprise and thought. Happy Birthday America!
59.9/ 209.4 miles traveled

My influences, Yet separate.

The Bill of Rights
Amendment I
Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or prohibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging the freedom of speech, or of the press; or the right of the people peaceably to assemble, and to petition the government for a redress of grievances.

Amendment II
A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed.

Amendment III
No soldier shall, in time of peace be quartered in any house, without the consent of the owner, nor in time of war, but in a manner to be prescribed by law.

Amendment IV
The right of the people to be secure in their persons, houses, papers, and effects, against unreasonable searches and seizures, shall not be violated, and no warrants shall issue, but upon probable cause, supported by oath or affirmation, and particularly describing the place to be searched, and the persons or things to be seized.

Amendment V
No person shall be held to answer for a capital, or otherwise infamous crime, unless on a presentment or indictment of a grand jury, except in cases arising in the land or naval forces, or in the militia, when in actual service in time of war or public danger; nor shall any person be subject for the same offense to be twice put in jeopardy of life or limb; nor shall be compelled in any criminal case to be a witness against himself, nor be deprived of life, liberty, or property, without due process of law; nor shall private property be taken for public use, without just compensation.

Amendment VI
In all criminal prosecutions, the accused shall enjoy the right to a speedy and public trial, by an impartial jury of the state and district wherein the crime shall have been committed, which district shall have been previously ascertained by law, and to be informed of the nature and cause of the accusation; to be confronted with the witnesses against him; to have compulsory process for obtaining witnesses in his favor, and to have the assistance of counsel for his defense.

Amendment VII
In suits at common law, where the value in controversy shall exceed twenty dollars, the right of trial by jury shall be preserved, and no fact tried by a jury, shall be otherwise reexamined in any court of the United States, than according to the rules of the common law.

Amendment VIII
Excessive bail shall not be required, nor excessive fines imposed, nor cruel and unusual punishments inflicted.

Amendment IX
The enumeration in the Constitution, of certain rights, shall not be construed to deny or disparage others retained by the people.

Amendment X
The powers not delegated to the United States by the Constitution, nor prohibited by it to the states, are reserved to the states respectively, or to the people.

Again My Beliefs, Yet Separate.

THE TEN COMMANDMENTS,
1) "Thou shalt have no other gods before me."
2) "Thou shalt not make unto thee any graven image,"
3) "Thou shalt not take the name of the Lord thy God in vain;"
4) "Remember the Sabbath day, to keep it holy."
5) "Honor thy father and thy mother:"
6) "Thou shalt not kill."
7) "Thou shalt not commit adultery"
8) "Thou shalt not steal."
9) "Thou shalt not bear false witness against thy neighbor."
10) "Thou shalt not covet thy neighbor's house,.....nor anything that is thy neighbor's.”

Peace and Love and Freedom to All

After a Long Day

North Durham, I pulled in late off Hwy 98 and junction of Rt. 70, looking for a motel, its late, I spot a Budget Inn, I circle back, go in, I see the reflection of a police officer in the back room watching TV, people in the lobby, on the balcony, looking out windows, I get funny looks, I have been around, just not in this neighborhood. The sign in the lobby says, “after 10 minutes, no refund”, $43 bucks buys me a room, what else? The first room I am is in the back building, I unload my stuff, is this a safe area, is my stuff in the car safe, is me safe, why thoughts like this after 9000 miles, I get inside, looks like the AC works, even if the top cover is beat to shit. I am fried after a long day, and need a couple beers and dumb TV for an hour or so. All I get is FM radio, no TV, I go see the manager, an older black man, seems like he wonders why do I have to deal with this guy, I am not sure if he is helping me or will come back, in the end I get a different room, but I forget to get my stuff, so I go back for the third time, a big cop takes me back this time, he asks where I am from, where am I going, then seems to realize I am not a local or a person that uses this motel for other activities, men looking out windows, each balcony is well staffed, women come and go. The new room, the TV works, being persistent does help, I learned this working for a Country Club, members do it all the time, and they get results. Me too. In North Durham.
The bed seems better too. And I am in the inner section of the motel, looks a little safer. I have a restless night's sleep for 6 hours, then up every hour, it's 7:30, so I am up and off to see friends, Brandon & Holly are folks I ran into camping in Utah, 6 weeks ago. While getting ready to leave the motel, I go to drop off the key, a young black woman, early 30’s, missing teeth, hovering about in lobby, tells me of the $3 key deposit, I ask the first person I see behind the glass walled barrier for my deposit money, she then disappears, then she’s back with something to sign,I get 3 bucks, go to walk away, the gal in the lobby tells me she needs money for biscuits, so I give her the 3 bucks, I leave, sitting in the car, getting ready for the day, she walks up, I’m looking at a map, planning my day, she tells me how much she likes the NW, she needs to move back home, out of the shelter, we talk, I am unsure where this is going, so we make small talk, then she leaves, nothing more. There is racial tension in this town because of the Duke scandal, there are two stories, a poor person’s word against students with money and connections,so this issue has people worked up, it’s going to be some time before things settle down.
I go to Biscuitville to get coffee, biscuits are big in the south, only Yankees eat toast, I am curious where the biscuits end and toast begins, the Mason-Dixon Biscuit Line maybe.
I meet friends in Carrboro, a fun, funky section of town, we have breakfast at the Co-Op and catch up on our lives.
Then we go to a fund raising festival for the Eno River, they are using money to purchase property and have hopes of a State Park, there are all sorts of crafts, lots of dancing and there is a working Grist Mill on the property. They are grinding wheat and corn, great to see passive uses of flowing water, and there are performers, too, Kerrville folks are there, Greg Klyma with his Kerrville mug, Jonathan Byrd and Dar Williams, fun, it’s a wonderful event with a great respect for the ways of the past.
Off to spend a couple of days in Gary, NC with Brandon and Holly, and their dogs Chaka, Tayma and Annie, they are gracious hosts, respectful and socially concerned, connected to their roots, family and friends, taking in a traveler, a stranger, we had meet out West, we talked for a few hours, had beers, and then watched the full moon come up in Bryce Canyon and as well had a good hike together in Zion, and now they have invited me into their home. While at their home we had a nice picnic, and played poker with friends, I enjoyed playing with the dogs, we listened to music, talked politics, and watched old movies. Brandon has started his own blog, excellent satire and dark stories, check him out at beardedtoad.blogspot.com
We have to seek faith in our fellow humans, trust our instincts, and take small risks, be aware, share, listen and love unconditionally.
52.4 mpg/ 60.3 miles traveled

Leaving Nag’s Head Before Being Eaten by Crabs

Leaving Nag’s Head Before Being Eaten by Crabs –July 1st
After a great week with family, we sit around on our last night together eating fresh steamed crab and shrimp, a quiet fell on the table as men, women and children cracked, dug, pulled out every piece of juicy sweet crabmeat,
it was a marvelous time had by all, except poor George, who is allergic to shellfish, we also made burgers. Food all week was wonderful, from Craig & Lisa’s breakfast of Chopped Venison over Toast (SOS) along with Potato, Egg, and Sausage scramble, Nicole & Tom making Pancakes and Tacos, not at the same meal, George & Pamela with Chicken Kabobs, Jill with Pulled Pork Sandwiches and Mac &Cheese, Pat& Val, my sister, holding down the fort and directing traffic, Craig was responsible for a bushel of fresh steamed crabs, and me steamed shrimp. The crabs pick on us, we pick on them.
Friday night , after the crab feast, some on the crew departed, then the rest have left before I get up, my first day in a bed all week, I sleep in, they were all gone at 8am, strange feeling, a big empty house, most of the rentals change hands on Saturday, folks saying good-bye, hugs, it was a much needed family experience for me, not a bad thing at all, family.

Off to see the big sailing ships in Beaufort, NC, down Hwy. 12 south, along the narrow islands of Cape Hatteras, pass many beautiful lighthouses, summer houses, and people having fun. Though Pea Island, in Buxton, then on to the free ferry at Hatteras, you need to call for reservations for the Ocracoke Ferry, a 3 hour ride to Cedar Island, they leave at Noon, 3pm, and 6pm, I call they are full till 6pm, so after a pleasant ½ hour ferry ride, it’s 11:35am, Skate flies down the road, it’s a 45 minute drive to Ocracoke, we only pass one car, driving a little over the limit, if you have more time, looks like a great town, lots to do here, yet no time for me here, pass Howard’s Pub, that's where I am going if I can’t get off the island, it’s 5 till noon, I pull up, say hello,there's one spot left, lucky for me, behind me are some Outward Bound kids after a 2 week kayak trip around the islands, I don’t know, who’s happier. Time on the ferry to write about family, thoughts of them fresh. All good people, we lost my sister Donna last year, she as a trooper, in life and with family and friends, she would want us to continue doing life’s chores and enjoying it’s small treasures, she was the one that stayed in the East, raised three smart and beautiful girls and son and continued to build bonds with the community she loved, for my reasons I choose to life out West, at times its too far away. Donna had a sweet sense of humor even when suffering, her willingness to live, and do things she was told not to, and still laugh and smile, and be a brat to the end of her life, and we miss you and love you. I appreciate your love to me, and your gentle understanding of me, your older brother that moved away 30 years ago to Oregon, I will take your strength and love. I will be there for our family when needed. Bless you, Sweet Donna.
Off the ferry at Cedar Island, not really an island, across the marsh land south, pass Stacy on to Beaufort, the ship the Meka II is a 54 foot half scale replica of a 17th century two-masted pirate brigantine. In 2002, Captian Sinbad and crew guided the Meka II to victory in the Americas’ Sail Class B race in Montego Bay, Jamaica, which earned Sinbad the right to host the 2006 event in his homeport of Beaufort.
There is the Cisne Branco, 249 feet from Brazil, the Virginia from Norfolk, Virginia, one of the coolest is the Ada Mae, a skipjack, used for dredging oysters, it is one of only 20 remaining and believed to be the last of its kind built in North Carolina, it’s 62 feet in length, with a mast of more than 53 feet and 1200 square feet of sail. There was music, food and lots of Pirates about. Beaufort is pronounced BOW-fort here, in South Carolina its phew-fort, in the south its fun to think you talk like the locals, but like any relgion, good luck!
This was once a fishing village here, settled by the French Huguenots and English sailors more than 275 years ago. Fishing was active hare during three wars, the Revolution, the War of 1812 and the Civil War, lots of great older buildings, a 1709 cemetery called the Old Burying Ground and pirates, did I say Pirates, this was a hang out for Blackbeard and his pirates in the 1600’s, his treasure is buried here, somewhere buried in a long forgotten place.
Before I leave, I take a harbor tour of the tall ships, on the Water Bug, a dinky little oval shaped boat, very enjoyable, the captain told us all boats have their music, so while going by a tall ship, he plays ”Blow the Man Down”, we turned heads, get laughs, we sing and we yelled like pirates, we were scary, I am sure, well maybe. Lots of sailing vessels from all over the world take part. A Fun time.
It’s time to get back on the road, south along the Crystal Coast, pass Fort Mason, down to Cape Carteret, then while on the inland take Rt. 58 N inland, going though Pollockville, black folks are out on this Sunday Eve, eatin’ and talkin’ and being together, time for relaxing. Farm lands, tobacco sheds, smell of manure is in the air, rolling hills, a nice drive with a beautiful orange sunset, I cross Snow Hill for the second time, stop at Bojangles for Fried Chicken and Biscuits, not bad for a small chain, good sweet tea. Then on to Durham, I am pushing hard, to hard this night, I get assistance from Renee in Odessa, Texas, following my commitment to take mostly all small roads, tired and worn this takes me on Rt. 222 to Rt. 39 north to then Rt. 98 W,I am trying to get as close to Chapel Hill as possible for breakfast with friends, Brandon and Holly, folks I meet in Utah. It’s late, it’s dark, tell me to stop, nerves a bit on edge.
I pull into North Durham, a Budget Motel, to late to look any longer.
More on the Budget (crack) Motel later.
62.0mpg/328 miles traveled

Roanoke Island and the Outer Banks

Roanoke Island and the Outer Banks
June 24-30, 2006
Much needed time exploring and family time, there are 8 children with parents, mostly that’s OK, as long as you don’t need a nap. When I am not spending time with relatives, it’s off to see the sights.
This part of the country has seen some remarkable events, the first English Colony, then early American settlers, African Americans, first as slaves, then a freeman, even starting one of the first free communities, the Wright Brothers at Kitty Hawk, this area is rich in it’s history, from its lighthouses, marsh lands,kite flying, wildlife, restaurants, abundant seafood and industrially, shops of all kinds, the beach, deep sea fishing, and putt-putt golf, even a couple of micro-breweries.
I was fascinated by the weather station at Manteo, having read ‘blue highways”, this is were the author was hanging out on the dock, and was asked if he wanted to go on a fishing boat and work soon, too. So I wanted to check it out. There are not many fishing boats here now, it’s a bit upscale, proporty rates, condo's, you know the story, but, to the south on Rt. 345 to Wanchese, there is a healthy industrial fishing fleet, and a community of working class folks, while checking out the docks, it's late in the day now, I drove around the area to see the community at ladge,there were guys at the end of their day, drinking beers and hangin' out around their trucks shooting the breeze.
The Manteo Weather Station on Roanoke Island is dedicated to Alpheus W. Drinkwater 1875-1962, weatherman, telegrapher, wreck commissioner, the US Weather Bureau once used the coastal warning display tower to fly flags to warm mariners of wind shifts or approaching storms. On Nov. 10, 1904, the Weather Bureau established this station, putting Drinkwater in his role as telegraph operator, he was the logalical choice for weatherman. He is also noted as for sending the news of the Wright Brothers. Beyond the symbolic colors and sharps that told a rainy day or flood tides of a northwesterly, weather flags when flown in various combinations of shapes and colors, signaled that it was time to take in the laundry or to set the fishing nets, part of everyday life. At night, two red and one white signal lights flashed storm warnings. The Manteo weather tower is believed to be one of five towers still in use, and may be the only one with all of its original signal lights affixed.
“Cross the creek and you will find safe haven”.
The Outer Banks were home to many African Americans, communities and family have been a significant part of coastal tradition, they fished the waters of the sea and sound, piloted ships around the dangerous shoals and though the narrow channels of the waterways and safe guarded the coast for hundreds of years. Most of the first African Americans were brought as slaves starting in the early 1700’s. Up the civil war the Outer Banks islands had significant slave populations. Many African Americans were skilled waterman, heavily involved in fishing, ferrying, piloting although the Civil War changed the lives of many on the Outer Banks and altered the demographics of particular coastal communities. Folks maintained a viable presence in the region. In fact Roanoke Island was the site of one of America’s first freeman colonies.
Even before Sir Walter Raleigh planted an English Colony on Roanoke Island in the mid-1580s, Africans had been on North Carolina’s shores.
In 1526, Lucas Vasquez de Ayllon, a Spanish explorer and slave trader led an expedition of 500 people from the West Indies to settle near Cape Fear among them were several slaves. It is possible that the first blacks to visit came with Sir Francis Drake in 1586.
During the Civil War Free Blacks answered the call to arms, en mass following the Emancipation Proclamation their skilled knowledge of the area helped the Union, they were essential area to will the war.
The freedom of a freeman’s colony at Roanoke was the first in our history. Time for change, no different than today and for all Americans to have Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Happiness. That’s true freedom to me, and it is Free.“This, at present is safe asylum in all North Carolina, and God is lifting the yoke, and soon I feel there will be a great rush of those who are held by the last firm grip of expiring slavery”. Sarah P. Freeman, a missionary, teacher, writing about the Roanoke Island Freeman’s Colony on July 8, 1864. Sadly after the Civil War the Colonies land was given back to the original land owners.
There is a micro brewery here, theWeeping Radish, and a Eco-friendly Bavarian fare, open since 1986 on the Island, very good Bavarian fare, nice lunch of sausages, pretzel and beer, they had Corolla, why I don't know, and their own brews: a German pale lager, Fest, an amber lager, and Black Radish, a dark lager Munich Dunkel style and a seasonal Hefewiesen, they were all good full flavored, slightly flat, yet the Hefe was the best and had better bubbles. They use organic beef and work with local farmers to buy fresh organic vegetables.
On to Nag’s Head and Kill Devil Hills,
“the sand fairly blinds us, it blows across the ground in clouds. We certainly can’t complain of this place. We came down here for wind and sand, and we got them”

Orville Wright, 10/18/1900
The Wright Brothers of Dayton, “from the time we were little children, my brother Orville and myself lived together, playing together, worked together and in fact, thought together”, the bachelor brothers lived with their father and younger sister. They went into business in 1892. Wright Cycle Shop, at first they sold and repaired machines, but later begin to manufacture them.
Later they used the shop to build parts for their airplane, on there experiments the brothers said “all the experiment have been conducted at our own expense without assistance from any individual or institution”.
In order to fly a powered machine to Wright Bros. had to solve three major problems
1) Lift, 2) power, 3) control, climb and descent, steering, sideways balance.
All things I need to do in life.
On their 1902 glider “our new machine is very great improvement over anything we had built before or that anyone else has built”, The brothers made a thousand glider flights, many on them into 35mph winds at Kill Devil Hills, their record 622 ½ feet in 26 seconds
By adding horsepower and propellers at the end of 1902, the brothers had solved most of the problems of free flight. They began to work on the motor
The 1903 powered machine, their new machine was the promising, yet, now to attempt to fly.
On Dec. 13, 1903 the day man first flew. “Only those who are acquainted with the practice of aeronautics can appreciate the difficulties of attempting the first flight. Four attempts at controlled flight, the final flight 852 feet in 59 seconds.
“When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return”. Leonardo da Vinci
Lots of great eats here, go to eat early in the summer, or better yet, go for a late afternoon lunch, you may get a table.
There is a micro brewery called Outer Banks Brewing Station, with great beers and creative food as well, their beers are Olsch, pale-Bubbha-bubba Hefeweizen-Hip Hop IPA-Golden Eye Alt-All Around Brown-Irish Breakfast Stout-Sledgehammer-Barley Wine.
I have had lots of great meals around the house, each day a different family will cook, chicken kabobs one night, chipped venison with cream sauce over toast for breakfast (SOS), BBQ Pork Sandwiches and mac and cheese, I grilled large tenderloins, mushrooms and peppers, and a salad of spinach, strawberries, toasted pecans, yellow heirloom tomatoes, with a cranberry mustard-honey vinaigrette, then topped with gorgonzola, we have some meals out, there are way to many options to choose, so do some research, check out High Cotton BBQ today, I would like to go to Awful Arthur’s for oysters, or Sooey’s BBQ & Rib Shack, while on an evening drive, I see that all the lots were full and the smells are delightful.
A beautiful place, great for R&R, time with family, it fascinating to see the different strains and influences in the family because of genetics I guess, my sister Valerie inspects our baby toes, the last little one, we apparently have a passed on a mutation, turned-in pinkie toes, some of us have web toes. A very special place to land for a week, good healing time catching up with the past and family, securing relations for today, and enjoying the future generations.
Off to Beaufort for see the Tall Ships on Saturday, then inland to the Mountains and then to the northeast.

Bat Cave, to the Atlantic!!!

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Starting the day in Frankin, a bit worn from the push to get to Nags Head by the 24th for a needed visit with family, I had lost my sister Donna Marie on December 05, 2005 after her two year battle with cancer, she was 51 years of age, a sweetheart, loving mother, and friend, her four children will be in Nag’s Head, I was only able to be with her one time before she passed, because of my stuff, mainly the long divioce, we talked a lot on the phone, still its not like being there, she lived in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania.
So it’s important to make time today, I am one day away. I have enjoyed the south, but needed to spend more time down here to enjoy it and the people, eating BBQ and drinking sweet tea and music, after this drive, I hope not push like I have.
I have a good breakfast at the City Restaurant in Frankin, biscuits, all types, I lose an hour to a regional time change, get started about 11:30 am.
Back on the Road Hwy 64E.
In Highlands, there are lots of folks, shops, weekend stuff to do, I wish to get though town, taking to back roads will lead you though most towns, not around it, I take my medicine.
Lots of fruit and vegetable stands, pass Brevard, Cashiers, down 8% grade, northward to Bat Cave and the Chimney Rock area, need more time.
Bat Cave, after hiking a mile up a steep trail through a mature hardwood forest, you will be rewarded with Bat Cave’s natural air conditioning: a cool moist draft that constantly pours out of vents on the side of the large cave. Bat Cave is the largest known granite fissure cave in North America. The main chamber is a dark cathedral more than 300 feet long and approximately 85 feet high. Fissure caves are formed by rock splits, boulder movements, and other motions of the earth, while most other caves are formed by water dissolving and abrading rock.
While seeing this impressive cave opening is the attraction for most visitors, the rugged slopes around Bat Cave contain an equally important array of habitats and creatures. Hickory Nut Gorge is cloaked in cove hardwood forest, while Carolina hemlock and chestnut oak forest are found on the cliff tops and ridge line. The forests harbor a number of threatened or endangered plants, such as broadleaf coreopsis and Carey’s saxifrage. The preserve has an abundance of spring wildflowers, including bloodroot, toothwort, trillium, and violets.
There is a Nature Conservancy, one of their goals in managing this preserve is to reestablish the critically endangered Indiana bat to its former habitat. The cave itself is closed to visitation at all times and the preserve is closed from October to mid-April in an effort to allow the bats to hibernate undisturbed. If bats are disturbed during hibernation, they fly around and quickly use up the stored energy that they need to survive the winter. Three previously undescribed invertebrates -- a spider, a millipede, and an amphipod -- also live in the cave and are specially adapted to survive without sunlight and with a limited food supply. In warm months, you may see the crevice salamander sunning on exposed rocks.
In 1981, Margaret Flinsch began making gifts of undivided interest in the Bat Cave natural area to The Nature Conservancy. The preserve is now co-owned by Mrs. Flinsch and The Nature Conservancy. The Flinsches had owned the property since the 1920s. Invasive species such as tree-of-heaven, multiflora rose, Japanese grass, wineberry, and Japanese honeysuckle threaten the preserve’s native plants. North Carolina Chapter staff and volunteers are battling these exotic plants through the invasive species program.
Down to Rutherfordton, my intent was to take Hwy 64 the whole way, but instead, I take Hwy 74E to Shelby, 18N for a short time, Hwy 150E, it starts to rain, Hard. I spot another Honda Insight the third one one seen this trip. I Going over Charlotte, traffic slipping out of the big city, it’s Friday, then pass Lincolnton, severe thunderstorm warnings, we do not get storms like this in the NW, 152E to Chinaville, I stop at a real service station, gas, a garage and a mechanic, too. What a novelty, this is North Carolina, car racing and cars are still revered in the South. Who is #88?
They tell me about Gary’s BBQ, great plate of Pulled Pork, and Smoked Chicken, with white cabbage slaw, vinegar dressing,, French Fries and Hush Puppies, tomato and lettuce on the side, with a big dollop of Mayo, the Best Banana Pudding in the state and Sweet Tea, $7.75, I tell the staff and owner, there prices are to low, they say, don’t tell the local, they will complain. I leave quickly.
The storm has caught me again. Thunder and Lighting all around, wipers on high, visibility poor, no AC to help inside the car, and large puddles,too lucky for me, not many people driving in this stuff.

Hwy 52E pass Gold Hill, then 49E pass Asheboro, back toHwy 64E, then 421E, 64 goes into the Durham area, I afford Durham by going under.
Stopping in Dunn for a needed night’s rest at a motel, I ask the clerk if they have Wi-Fi, she asks “what’s that?” I type a report, will post later. Louis Black is on the tube, good laughs.
61.5 mpg/ 353 miles traveled

Highway facts:Hwy 64,it's an east-west United States highway that runs for 2,326 miles (3,743 km) from eastern North Carolina to just southwest of the Four Corners in northeast Arizona , this road runs the entire width of this scenic state, this road starts 4 miles west of Ranger, North Carolina and ends at Manteo not sure about total miles.

Waking in Dunn, North Carolina for a lazy drive to the Atlantic Ocean and Nag’s Head.
Take Hwy 55E then 13N, pass farm lands of tobacco, corn and soybeans, tractors on the road, toward Goldsboro, rated as “One of America Best Cities in 1993” , taking
70E south of the city, missing a turnoff, I turn on 903N through the town of LaGrange, as much as Goldsboro is so livable, the downtown in this small rural farm town is mostly vacant storefronts, owning a small business here may be a thing on the past in this area, so close, yet so far away. Pass Snow Hill to Alt. 264 E around Greenville, to 264E, then following the river basin pass the turn off for Historic Bath, incorporated in 1705, is recognized as North Carolina’s oldest town. Bath is rich in authentic Colonial history as the first county seat for Beaufort County and in legend and lore was the “home” of Blackbeard the Pirate when he was not threatening commerce on the high seas, I must come back to explore, they call this the Albemarle Highway, pass New Holland, Engelhard into Dare County, famous for the Lost Colony, back on Hwy 64, pass the fishing village of Manteo, this town is mentioned in the book “Blue Highways”, on to Nag’s Head, saying hello to seagulls and pelicans fishing near the bridge.
More on the area, later. Family Time!

60.1/ 251.6 miles traveled

Hills of Tennessee to the Great Smokey Mountains

Into the Great Smokey Mountains
Waynesboro, Tennessee to Frankin, North Carolina
So many roads, here’s the log, then the story:
Tenn. 64E, to Winchester, then 50W to Lynchburg & Jack Daniels, 50W back to Winchester, 64E to Tracy City, 56N to 399E, pass Gruetle-Laager, Hwy 8E down the Cumberland Plateau to Dunlap, along the Sequatchie River to Pikeville, down 30E across the Tennessee River to Decatur, up the foothills to Athens, 39E to Hwy 165E, the Cherohala Scenic Skyway, into North Carolina, Rt. 143E, a bite to eat in Robbinsville, with many loops around this old mill town to find food, then many loops to leave as well, they need a special map just for this town, though Stecoah, and a twisty, turny late evening ride on Hwy 28 S to Frankin.
The day's ride: Waking up in rural Tennessee, after a great drive though Mississippi and Alabama, up the Natchez Trace. A perfect day.
Now log cabins, fruit stands, churches, small rural towns struggling to get by, poor country folks with an economy that’s moving elsewhere, folks making money on there treasures, your antique,
small shops shattered on the sides of most roads, pass Good Hope Primitive Church, there are alot of divisions of the church goers here and homemade crackin’, rolling hills to farm country, cornfields for miles.
“Give me cornbread when I am hungry, corn whiskey when I am dry”.
Stopped in Winchester for breakfast of eggs, grits and biscuits, on the dinner menu there’s frog legs, fried chicken, and chicken livers, the service decent, too.
Leaving, ready to pay, young woman on cell phone taking my money, complaining about her boyfriend, making change, it’s not the first time, this practice is very annoying.
I notice Lynchburg, home of Jack Daniels, I need to do some back tracking on Hwy 50, pretty, pretty drive 21 miles up the into the hills to the distillery, this is a dry county, has been since 1906. Go figure.
The employees get a fifth a month, so let’s meet in the parking lot soon.
The tour is lots of fun, our guide was very entertaining, he had all of us laughing with his stories, then we all sniff the fermenting mash, he even tried to sweet talk one of the light headed ladies into a walk.
This is the “Oldest requested distillery in the US” established in 1866. I am sure that others have been making clear liquid in a jar for longer than that.
There is George Dickel's and Prichard’s distilleries close by, too.
In Lynchburg check out the Caboose Bar-B-Que Cafe, as well as lots of the small country shops here, the cafe has good BBQ pork or smoked chicken, hand-squeezed lemonade and peach cobbler, they even have live music of Friday night and a live radio show of old timey music and they broadcast every Saturday at 10am.
Back down 50E to 64E, its local election time, so the sign reads, Mike Foster for Sheriff, “he will continue to give Bibles to inmates”, he should get re-elected, cuss God wants him in office, then I pass the Bear Hollow Smokehouse.
There is an odd mix of religion, moonshine, music and a way of life that seems a bit confusing to me.
Back on the road heading east, the mountains in SE Tennessee are like fins, carved out by ancient rivers more than 5000 yrs old, maybe older depending on who you believe. This wonderful country with has no straight roads, except the Interstate, but my arms need the exercise, and who needs to go straight.
Up Hwy. 127, along the Sequatchie River to Pikeville, turn down Hwy 30E, pass the Laurel Snow Rocket Wilderness, across the Tennessee River, up the ridge, into the hills, then the Appalachian Mountains, on to the Cherohala Scenic Skyway, take Hwy 39E to 165E, crossing from Tennessee to North Carolina for the ride of a lifetime.
There are motorcyclists all over these mountains, there is a rally in Knoxville, 17,000 riders. On Rt. 129 around Deals Gap the road is called “the Tail of the Dragon” and a favorite ride for bikes and me.
The views are spectacular, rich, layered, forested, clear rivers, adventure for all, the Great Smokey Mountains, fun driving, Skate and I enjoying the ride, up to 5377’ at the summit, down a 9% grade, way down, yet you are never quite down, that takes another 150 miles, pass Stecoah, where the Historic Stecoah Valley Center is, there is folk, bluegrass and mountain music, dancing, story telling and ballads sing, other activities include spinning, weaving, log spitting, as well as local crafts and information of the Cherokee culture.
Time to rest, down Hwy 28 to Frankin, another road less traveled, I will name this road. “the Spine of the Southern Dragon”.60.3 mpg/ 381.2 miles traveledI great finish to a day on many small roads cutting though southern Tennessee hills into the mountains of North Carolina, excellent!